Hiking in Iceland: Laugavegur & the Highlands
Iceland is trekking on another planet — volcanic deserts, rhyolite mountains in impossible colours, geothermal valleys, glaciers, and river crossings on foot. The highland interior is only accessible for a few weeks each summer, when the mountain roads open and the Laugavegur trail becomes one of the most extraordinary multi-day walks in Europe.
The Laugavegur trail (Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk, ~55 km, 4 days) is the flagship route, regularly voted among the world's best hikes. The Fimmvörðuháls extension continues over the Eyjafjallajökull volcano to the south coast.
This guide covers the Laugavegur, the highland access window, the river crossings, and the weather that defines Icelandic trekking.
The Laugavegur Trail
The Laugavegur trail (~55 km, 4 days) runs from the rhyolite mountains of Landmannalaugar to the green oasis of Þórsmörk, crossing volcanic deserts, ice fields and geothermal valleys. It is hut-to-hut, operated by Ferðafélag Íslands (the Icelandic Touring Association), and huts must be booked months in advance.
The Fimmvörðuháls extension (~25 km, 1–2 days) continues from Þórsmörk over the new craters of the 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruption down to Skógar on the south coast, passing between two glaciers.
Highland Access and River Crossings
The Icelandic highlands are only accessible once the F-roads (mountain roads) open, typically late June to early July, and close again by mid-September. Outside this window the interior is impassable. Check road.is for current conditions.
Several trails require fording glacial rivers on foot — these can be knee-to-thigh deep, cold and fast. Never cross a river that is deeper than your thigh, unbuckle your pack straps before crossing, and use trekking poles. Some rivers have no bridges by design.
Weather and Safety
Icelandic weather is extreme and changeable year-round. Even in midsummer, highland temperatures can drop near freezing with driving rain and wind. Carry full waterproofs, warm layers, and a tent or hut booking — there is no shelter on the volcanic plains.
Check vedur.is (the Icelandic Met Office) daily. Do not attempt highland trails in forecasted severe weather. The 112 Iceland app allows you to register your trip plan with emergency services.
Frequently asked questions
- How long is the Laugavegur trail? Approximately 55 km over 4 days, hut-to-hut from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk. The Fimmvörðuháls extension adds ~25 km to the south coast.
- When can you hike in the Icelandic highlands? Only from late June/early July to mid-September, when the F-roads open. Check road.is for current conditions — the interior is impassable outside this window.
- Do I need to ford rivers in Iceland? Some trails require glacial river crossings on foot, which can be knee-to-thigh deep. Never cross deeper than your thigh, unbuckle your pack straps, and use trekking poles. Check route descriptions in advance.
- Do I need a guide for the Laugavegur? No. The trail is well-waymarked in good weather. However, navigation skills and river-crossing experience are valuable, and weather can change rapidly. Huts must be booked well in advance.
- Is Iceland good for a first trekking trip? The Laugavegur is suitable for fit, well-equipped first-timers who are comfortable with changeable weather and basic navigation. It is not a "gentle" first trek — come prepared for cold, wind and river crossings.
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